It is no exaggeration to say that Italy is rather proud of its culinary heritage. Travel to Italy and you will of course find the most internationally famous examples of the cuisine, such as pizza and spaghetti, but there is also surprising variety within the country. The cities of Modena and Bologna are a stone’s throw from each other, but each has their own distinct, not to mention highly competitive, local food culture.
For me though, my greatest food experience wasn’t found in the worlds of pizza, pasta or risotto, but in ice cream. Gelato, as it is known in Italy, is wildly popular, with countless shops selling their many flavors to locals and tourists alike. Most of these gelaterias are small, casual shops, with garish, brightly colored signs pointing the way to their delicious treats.
In the heart of Rome, though, is a curious exception, said to have the best flavors on offer in the Italian capital. The trouble is, most people simply cannot find it. The gelateria of San Crispino is marked only by a small sign next to an unassuming door found on a quiet side street. Despite being near the Trevi Fountain, which is one of Rome’s most popular tourist destinations, it still largely flies under the radar.
Fortunately, after much fruitless searching, I was able to find the entrance. Inside, a row of huge fridges adorned the back wall. Upon closer inspection, each section was set to very specific parameters of temperature, humidity, etc, and each individual section houses just one flavour. For what appeared a very serious operation, the prices were very reasonable: it was just a few euros for two scoops, so I decided on a classic combination of raspberry and vanilla.
Once outside, in the heat of the day, I tucked into my gelato. Now, as a man with something of a sweet tooth, I had had my fair share of ice creams by that point. But nothing else in my experience even came close. The combination of flavor, texture and temperature was out of this world, and the two flavors I had chosen complemented each other exquisitely. Within two hours, I was back for more.
I was only in Rome for 3 days, and in that time I explored every inch of the famous Eternal City. I was only 19 at the time, and my travel arrangements were somewhat sparse to say the least. My hostel was cheap, lunches were basic, and souvenirs were rejected. San Crispino, on the other hand, was a luxury I just couldn’t refuse. During my stay, I returned another three times, testing out new flavor combinations on every pass. While each was a beautiful creation, none quite topped that first experience.
As the years have gone by, I wonder whether San Crispino has managed to retain its air of relative anonymity. After all, the Internet and social media have made it easier than ever for word to spread about such places. Mostly, I just hope the ice cream is as good as I remember it.
Rob
Vocabulary
a stone’s throw (idiom) ? a short distance
garish (adj.) ? overly bright and showy; lurid
unassuming (adj.) ? modest; not pretentious or arrogant
fruitless (adj.) ? unproductive or useless; failing to achieve the desired results
out of this world (idiom) ? extremely enjoyable or impressive
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